Tropical Modernism & Ghana
Is there a future for this type of architectural style?
I’m somewhat of an architecture buff. If I could go back in time, I’d seriously consider studying it, but now, in my late 30s, I just don’t have the seven or so years it takes to qualify as an architect. Still, I’ve always been fascinated by buildings, their appearance, the way they make us feel, the interior spaces, and the stories of the people who’ve lived in them. If walls could talk, I imagine they’d have some incredible stories to share.
I grew up in a Victorian semi-detached house in South London, which is a common style across the city and much of the UK. I loved the bay windows, high decorative ceilings, and large sash windows, it had such a unique charm.
When my husband and I first started dating, we were long-distance, he was living in Ghana, and I was in London. I’ll never forget his first visit to the UK; he described the architecture here as 'gothic and scary-looking.' And once he said that I couldn’t unsee it! Some parts of London have that gothic vibe, with gargoyles perched on buildings and baroque detailing that can feel a bit intimidating, especially if you’re coming from sunny Ghana. I hadn’t really noticed that contrast until he pointed it out. When you combine that gothic look with the brutalist architecture scattered around the city, it really sums up London’s unique aesthetic.
Architecture has a way of shaping how we experience a place. When I think of London, I think of grey buildings, historical grandeur, and a mix of modernism.
A few weeks ago, I treated myself to a solo date out in central London, on the agenda was to visit the Tropical Modern exhibition at the V&A. I’d been meaning to see it for months and finally caught it just before it closed. I’m so glad I did! Tropical Modernism has become one of my favorite architectural styles. When I lived in Ghana, I was always obsessed by these buildings, and learning about their history and significance through the exhibition made me appreciate them even more. I can’t wait to return to Ghana and experience these structures with fresh eyes.
What is tropical modernism and how did it emerge?
Tropical Modernism emerged as an architectural style in West Africa during British colonial rule. In the 1940s and '50s, the British government, in an effort to quell growing demands for independence, invested in modern education and public infrastructure projects across its colonies.
British architects Jane Drew and Maxwell Fry were key figures in the development of Tropical Modernism. Having failed to make this style popular in Britain, Fry once described England as an 'inartistic country' so they saw West Africa as an opportunity to experiment with their modernist principles. In this region, Drew and Fry adapted Modernism to suit hot, humid climates, creating a distinctive style that responded to local environmental conditions.
After independence, Kwame Nkrumah embraced Tropical Modernism, transforming it from a colonial import into a symbol of Ghana’s progress and political aspirations. Kwame Nkrumah nurtured a new generation of local architects who were more attuned to cultural contexts and tasked them with building the architecture of a modern, post-colonial Ghana.
Nkrumah, in particular, was a strong advocate for the Africanisation & decolonisation of Africa. Under his rule he created a policy that Ghanaian architects were required to be partners in all construction projects, ensuring that local expertise and cultural identity played a central role in shaping the country's future.
Tropical Modernism & Me
When I moved to Ghana a few years ago, I was drawn to these buildings. Compared to the newer, more modern developments in Accra, they stood out with so much character. The brise soleil walls, louvers, and wide eaves were designed for the tropical climate, and stepping inside these buildings, you could feel the thought that went into their construction. They were built with the environment in mind.
Being in those spaces felt like stepping back to 1960’s Ghana a time of transformation under Kwame Nkrumah, when there was so much hope and energy after independence. These buildings were part of that era of growth and optimism, and I feel connected to that history. One building that comes to mind is the Trade Fair building. In its heyday, it must have been buzzing with activity. My husband often tells me about the great times he had there as a child, but now it’s just a shadow of what it once was.
The KNUST campus isn’t far from my family home in Kumasi, and every time I visit, I’m taken aback by the stunning modernist buildings scattered across the campus. With its setting in a tropical jungle, the campus itself feels like the embodiment of Tropical Modernism. The campus sits on over 2,500 acres, the buildings theleves are concentrated in certain areas, leaving expansive green spaces that make walking through the campus truly special. It's a privilege to be able to experience a place like this in Ghana as green spaces like these are rare, and they make the campus feel like a natural oasis.
Even the house I rent now has elements of Tropical Modernism. It was built in the 1970s, and I was immediately drawn to its charm. The practical design, the brise-soleil walls, its orientation and greenery keep the house naturally cool. Before this, we rented a newer house that felt like a furnace without the AC. In this older home, we dont even have air conditioning and we rarely turn on the fan. It’s amazing how well these architects understood the climate and designed for it.
Is there a future for tropical modernism?
It’s rare to see new buildings in Ghana adopting this architectural style, but I have to say, working in construction myself in Ghana, I’ve noticed that many up-and-coming architects do incorporate these same principles.
Do I think there’s a future for Tropical Modernism? Absolutely. I would love to see more buildings in Ghana, especially in the cities, that are designed with the environment in mind. In recent years, we’ve seen many modern and impressive structures popping up, but I can’t help but feel that some of them don’t quite fit with the landscape. They’re sleek and fancy, but they seem disconnected from the natural surroundings and the architectural identity of the country. I don't need to be going into a building and immediately looking to turn on the AC.
Tropical Modernism, on the other hand, is rooted in local climate and culture. It strikes a balance between functionality and aesthetics, allowing buildings to be both beautiful and practical for the environment. As Ghana continues to grow, it’s important that our architecture reflects that balance, staying true to our heritage while also embracing innovation. That’s the future I hope to see.
This is an incredible piece! I'd never heard of Tropical Modernism before. I lived in Savannah, GA, a city filled with Victorian architecture and Gingerbread details, but I realize now that I was definitely grouping different styles of architecture under the term "Victorian". I'm excited to take this essay and continue learning more about architectural styles.